On sustainability, seasonal eating, and what makes a memorable meal
We’re proud to have Reia in the bathrooms at St. Barts — the only restaurant in London to hold both a Michelin Star and a Green Michelin Star. Set in the historic heart of Smithfield, St. Barts is the third project from long-time friends Toby, Johnnie and Luke, who also created Hackney’s Nest and Nest Farmhouse in Norfolk.
We sat down with one of their founders, Toby Neill, to hear more about how the restaurant came to be, what sustainability means to the team, and the small rituals that help him unwind.
How did St. Barts come to be? What inspired you to create this space?
St. Barts is the restaurant the three of us – Johnnie, Luke and I – have always dreamed of opening. Over the years we’ve built close relationships with farmers, growers and conservationists across the UK, and we wanted to create a space that brought their work together under one roof.
We want to create an experience that focuses on more than just food. It’s also about respect: for the land, the ingredients it offers, and every person involved in the process along the way.
St. Barts has earned a Green Michelin Star, a rare accolade. What does sustainability look like in practice for you?
It’s embedded in everything we do. We serve only British ingredients, down to the citrus and sugar. Our fish, meat and vegetables are sourced from small-scale farms, many of which are regenerative or biodynamic.
For example, we’ve been known to serve Chinese Water Deer, an invasive species shot on the Woburn Estate just an hour from London, which we collect directly from the gamekeeper. We’ve spent the past decade finding and building close relationships with producers, growers and conservationists who share the same care for the land. We try to always make use of the whole animal – curing lesser cuts, braising, turning bones into broth – and ferment or preserve surplus to reduce waste.
We also think carefully about design and materials. Tables are made from naturally fallen London Plane, bowls from foraged stone, even the flowers come from our own gardens. It’s not just about reducing impact, but supporting a wider community of local makers and craftspeople.
We’re constantly evolving, learning from our team and our producers.
What kind of experience do you hope guests take away after an evening at St. Barts?
Something memorable, and, above all, clean hands. (he laughs)
But really, we want it to feel like a full experience, not just a meal. From the pacing of the menu to the warmth of service, we try to create a rhythm that invites people to slow down and connect: with each other, with the food, with where it all came from.
The detail in your food is remarkable. What guides your approach to ingredients and technique?
Everything starts with the ingredient. It’s all British and all seasonal, which keeps us grounded and responsive to the land.
The menu has a natural arc. It begins with raw and cured dishes, then moves gently through steaming and poaching, ending with open-flame cooking. It’s about letting each element speak in its own time.
At Reia, we think a lot about reconnecting to the natural world. How does St. Barts encourage that for your guests?
The space itself is part of it. We drew inspiration from the old buildings of Smithfield, using raw materials like wood, stone and soft linen to create something tactile and grounded.
Our tableware is handmade by co-founder Luke and other ceramicists, including Adrian Gonzales, who draws inspiration from the British coastline. Even the tables have a story, made by local woodworker Archie Faber from fallen London trees.
We like to think of our hands as our hardest-working companions. After long days in the kitchen, how do you care for yours?
You’re asking the wrong person – my hands are a disgrace! 
And finally, what does self-care look like for you? Are there any small rituals you return to?
Plenty of cups of tea.
If you’d like to experience St. Barts for yourself, reservations can be made here. And if you step into their bathrooms while you’re there, you’ll find our latest hand wash SILVA, chosen to complement the restaurant’s grounded, elemental spirit.
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